Top Deck® Central Europe Tour

12 June to 16 July 1986


Top Deck

JOURNAL

The following entries are brief (and sanitised!) extracts from a travel journal I kept while on tour.  Hopefully they pick up on key events and incidents (also see memory box) that others on tour, if they were to read this, will have recollection of.  I have used people's names as much as possible to help spark memories of those with which I shared this time.  It has been an interesting experience re-reading my journal for these extracts (first time in 20 years) as to the events and incidents recorded that I had completely forgotten.  On re-reading, for some I still have no recollection.  I would welcome comment from others on the trip who may read this and I am happy to annotate entries.  I seem to remember being ribbed a fair bit about keeping what was a pretty detailed journal. For all those travel companions convinced I was writing a book for publication, 20 years on these extracts hopefully suffice!

What I haven't forgotten and what was evident in my journal was the great sadness when the tour finished.  Despite some tensions, disagreements, and all other typical group dynamic factors on tour this was a special adventure for a group of young people intent on seeing the world and having a great deal of fun doing it.

Cheers

Andrew

horizontal rule

Date

Place

Events/Activities/Comments

12 June, Thursday

 

London, UK to Paris, France Departed London for Dover at 7:00am in a Top Deck transit coach.  Boarded the Decker bus, named Pig Pen, at Dover port.  Arrived in Calais with stop for supplies and then onto Paris and first campsite.

 

13 June, Friday

 

Paris, France. City exploration.  Arc De Triomphe, Notre Dame, Louvre.  Post Office hunt and stamp purchase with Alison and Matt.  Dinner in the Latin Quarter this evening followed by a visit to the Pigalle. I should have visited the Follies nightclub with the others but didn't. Late night.

 

14 June, Saturday

 

Paris to Avignon, France PigPen heads south on the road to Avignon.  Short stop at Pont du Gard to examine this fantastic aqueduct.  Evening walk around the enchanting Avignon. Late night party meant another late night.

 

15 June, Sunday

 

Avignon, France to Barcelona, Spain Early walk through Avignon and some nice photo opps.  Back to PigPen and a three hour drive to Barcelona. Visited a 'traditional' Spanish village.   I skipped the bullfight attendance and instead Bridgette and myself did some exploring of Barcelona and found Gaudi's partially completed cathedral. The Decker bus attracted much attention from the locals-we got used to this.  Rice, ham steak, and pineapple for dinner before an evening walk through the Ramblas.  At 10:30pm we went to the Palacio National Fountain display. After the show we bussed to our nights camp spot, La Ballena Allegra, where a campground disco occupied most of us until the early hours.  Met up with a few other top deckers with two other buses at the campground.  I still think the 16 female passengers to 1 male passenger ratio on one of the buses would have made for an interesting trip!

 

16 June, Monday

 

Barcelona, Spain Shopping today-visit to a leather manufacturer but no purchase-I'm on a budget!  Small group of us (I'm guessing but I think it was Matt, Alison, Bridgette, Dianne, and myself) went for some more exploration of sights and sounds in the Ramblas. Evening meal was traditionally Spanish with a flaminco dancing show. Back at the campground, disco was the main attraction (again) to early hours.  Thanks Matt for arranging the Midnight Oil music.  Okay, so it's a pretty weird  combination of Oils, Disco, and Spain but it all seemed to come together pretty well on the night. 

 

17 June, Tuesday

 

Barcelona, Spain to Antibbes, France Back on the road and heading north again into France.  Money change from pesetas to francs at the border (the Euro does simplify things nowadays) and towards our next stop at Antibbes. Arrived at Antibbes campsite mid evening to find two other Decker buses there as well as a Conticki bus.  Pub visit dodging the victorious French soccer fans (World Cup win today).  Walking return to the campground, we heard the sound of bongo drums.  Followed them to the beach where under the night sky some musicians were jamming away.  I make the comment in my journal  "...this was great-joining the spontaneous music session under a velvet black sky on a Mediterranean beach in the south of France".  One of those memorable travel moments.

 

18 June, Wednesday

 

Cannes, France

Monte Carlo, Monaco

 

From Antibbes to Cannes for the day.  Sun and swimming but cold water.  From Cannes and Antibbes onwards to Monaco.  Just before getting to Monaco we stopped at a perfume manufacturing plant called Parfumerie Fragonard.  Fantastic position in rugged mountains just below the little village of Eze.  After the factory tour, a few of us climbed up to the village.  Well worth it and I quote my journal "...'this is a beautiful little place in a stunning position with magnificent views of sea and mountains".   Dinner of sausage, potato mash, and vegetables in the bus with Evron and myself rostered on to wash the dishes. The evening saw a convoy of PigPen and two other Decker buses headed towards Monte Carlo.  Visit to the casino.  Those of us who weren't wearing runners (dress-standard) got in and undertook some low level gaming.  Pub visit (Rosies bar?) and then a night walk through Monte Carlo.  Back to the pub where aussie and kiwi comrades were out in force, back to 'PigPen' and a night drive to Pisa in Italy. 

 

19 June, Thursday

 

Pisa, Italy

Florence, Italy

Awoke in Pisa.  Gerry had parked the bus near the railway station.  Nearby was an old battered green bus-a private tour that had started from NSW as a 50 week trek overland.  Way to go.  Visited and climbed the leaning tower of Pisa.  I wonder if the tower balconies are equipped with protective railings nowadays?  Ate pizza in Pisa- of course.  On the road to Florence in the afternoon.  Campsite restaurant meal for the evening was pasta.

 

20 June, Friday

 

Florence, Italy Bridgette and myself on breakfast duty. A day in Florence with the inevitable visits to a leather work shop (I'm on a budget I said!).  Matt and myself visited the Duomo and the Academy of Fine Arts.  Back at camp at 5:00pm and joined Bridgette on cooking duty.  Chicken curry tonight.  Disco night in Florence at the Red Garter.  Apparently three of us got tired of the Red Garter as I note "we didn't come to Florence to sit around in a pub with Aussies listening to Waltzing Matilda".  Sorry.  Therefore Matt, Mitchell, and myself headed into town on a pizzeria crawl.  A great success.

 

21 June, Saturday

 

Rome, Italy Early departure for Rome.  Visit to Vatican city on the way and a stop in at the Sistine chapel. Then to Rome and the Coliseum.  The Coliseum visit was followed by our Roman campsite, Seven Hills, about 30 minutes from the city centre.  And of course this campground had a landscaped swimming pool, bars, disco, and supermarket with a collection of tame bunny rabbits, red deer and swans. At 11:00pm off to the disco.

 

22 June, Sunday

 

Rome, Italy After breakfast the Decker headed to Piazza del Poppolo from where we started a walking tour of Rome. Spanish steps, Church of Cappuchin monks (lots of bones), Trevi fountain (the coin trick worked because I re-visited  the fountain with Hilda in 2002), Pantheon, and Victor Emanuel monument.  A visit to St Peter's Square and the Pope's weekly blessing, St. Peter's Basilica,.  After lunch we drove out to the Catacombs.  Back at Seven Hills and a relaxing BBQ in the evening.

 

23 June, Monday

 

Rome, Italy Free day today with most of our group spending the day around the pool at Seven Hills-wise.  Very hot weather. Matt, Dick and myself decided to be different and caught a shuttle into the city.  Shorts a no go for entering St Peters.  The three of us stocked up with fresh fruit and cans of Coke and ate lunch just outside Vatican city. Sightseeing and a quiet evening writing for a change. (So there was  a fancy dress party on but...)

 

24 June, Tuesday

 

Sorrento, Italy Seven Hills to Pompeii, a 5 hour bus ride. Cameo factory visit before a tour of Pompeii.  At 4:30pm further south to Sorrento and (apparently though I have totally forgotten) a visit to an inlaid wood factory!  Pizza for dinner (courtesy of the food kitty).  Settled into our Sorrento camp.

 

25 June, Wednesday

 

Sorrento, Italy

Isle of Capris, Italy

Lots of sore heads this morning but a boat trip to the Isle of Capris was just the medicine.  Blue Grotto exploration...just remember to keep a low profile in the boat...not really designed for tall people.  Pasta, seafood, and salad dinner at the Mayflower restaurant. The Decker was cooking tonight it was so hot.  I relocated mattress and sleeping bag outside the bus and slept beneath the stars...though I can only vaguely remember.

 

26 June, Thursday

 

Pescara, Italy Onwards to Pescara.  Our Decker was pulled over by police for some reason but we were on our way pretty quickly.  Lost in Pescara for a while before locating our campsite, (Paola) right on the edge of the Ionic sea. Evening game of volleyball and eating ice-cream all with the backdrop of a magnificent sunset.  Who suggested skinny-dipping...?

 

27 June, Friday

 

Ville, San Marino

Venice, Italy

Onward bound for San Merino.  Some exploring of San Merino and some shopping (Dire Strait cassette tapes and film).  Left the Republic at 3:00pm and headed to Venice.  Top campground with the largest mosquito population I have ever encountered and I mean ever.  In my  journal I describe them as 'vicious'!  Another Decker there, Sixpence, and following pub attendance there ensued a Sixpence/PigPen all night party.  I have made note of someone consuming a whole bottle of Galiano...;-)...and it wasn't me!

 

28 June, Saturday

 

Venice. Italy Decker clean to start the day-remnants of party of few hours earlier-and then into Venice via ferry that is.  Mid morning at St Mark's square. Venetian glass factory in arvo.  Lunch of pizza (seemed to eat a lot of pizza in Italy!) with Vicky and Miecho.  Chicken and spare rib barbie at camp site in evening along with several million mosquitoes.

 

29 June, Sunday

 

Kirchberg, Austria Woke up in a moving bus at 6:00am.  We had left Venice at 4:00am and headed to Austria.  Money changing at the border.  White water rafting.  Night stop  in Kirchberg at the  TopDeck Austrian chalet (called Club Habitat).  Roast dinner was served and we actually slept in a room for a change-nice change from the bus.

 

30 June, Monday

 

Kirkberg (& Tirol Region), Austria Town walk after breakfast and then a conducted Tirolean tour on PigPen.  First stop was village of Kirchdorf.  At Kaiserblick a quick visit to the erotic service station.  Lunch at the Stausbewirt restaurant- fried trout and potato salad followed by apple strudel and cream for desert.  Schnapps included!  Schnapps sculling ensued and I seem to remember a couple of top deckers  imbibing a bit too much schnapps.  Not sure if they enjoyed the Rolba Run later that afternoon...

 

1 July, Tuesday

 

Kirchberg, Austria Morning cycling  with Matt and Dick.  Good tour of the Tirol though as we headed to nearby Brixen..  I think I only came off the bike once.  Lunch on PigPen and then an afternoon hike with Brian, a Club Habitat employee,  in the lead.  Up the mountains above Club Habitat.  Fresh milk at a nearby farmhouse.  Dinner at  8:00pm on PigPen and an evening at "The Londoner" pub.

 

2 July, Wednesday

 

Berchtesgaden, West Germany

Salzburg, Austria

Last breakfast at Club Habitat at 8:30am before farewelling Kirchberg.  The bus headed into West Germany and the town of Berchkesdaden and a visit to a salt mine.  I seem to remember spiralling down to the mine underground on some sort of slide?  Back into Austria mid-afternoon and onwards to Salzburg with a quick stop at an 18th Century water palace.  Dinner on the bus with the Von Trapp family home and lake as a backdrop. Made it to the campground and gave up on the viewing of a 'Sound of Music' video.

 

3 July, Thursday

 

Salzburg, Austria

Salzburg tour after breakfast.  Alison, Mitchell, and myself went on our own tour and included a castle visit.  Heading to Vienna in the afternoon- arriving there at 5:30pm.  I sub-contracted my cleaning duties and took the opportunity to relax. Evening visit to "The Wolf'.  Short stop there before some of us headed to an alternative night spot ie cafe garden.

 

4 July, Friday

 

Vienna, Austria Washing up duty with Bridgette after breakfast.  Vienna exploration.  Evening washing up  duties.  Evening visit to Vienna fun fair.

 

5 July, Saturday

 

Munich, West Germany Long drive to Munich. Took almost a day.  Currency exchange at border bank.  Evening arrival in Munich at 6:30pm.  Gerry parked bus near railway station where we were the centre of attention...as usual.  Nicky went off to arrange dinner.  This was at 7:30pm at a nearby beer hall courtesy of food kitty.  Deckers associated themselves with the famous beer stein.  Our departure from the hall at 11:30pm saw us with some 'Sixpence' and 'Con-Ticki" passengers who needed a lift back to the campground, a beer hall chair (thanks Brian), and a few souvenir steins.  Party, party, party and then sleep by 3:00am.

 

6 July, Sunday

 

Munich, West Germany Munich and surrounds sightseeing- Dachau concentration camp, Munich Olympic museum, and BMW museum. Campsite activity in the evening (code for I didn't write down what happened this evening for some reason).

 

7 July, Monday

 

Munich, West Germany Raining today.  More Munich sightseeing-Group stop at a local Furriers.  Group broke up after this and Mitchell and I headed into the main shopping mall.  Stopped off at the 'World of Music' and the Deutches museum.  Back to PigPen at 12:00pm for lunch...no bus though.  Tacho had died and Gerry was getting it repaired.  Lunch at a world-famous takeaway. Back to wait for bus.  No bus. Onto a coffee shop.  Finally met up with bus at 3:00pm and departed Munich bound for Fussen.  Stocked up with supplies from a supermarket along the way.

 

8 July, Tuesday

 

Fussen, West Germany

Liechtenstein

Evron and I are on cooking duties today.  Beans and ham on toast-okay so its not cordon bleau but it was still a good brekkie.  Today spent in the mountains-visit to Neuschwanstein castle.  After the visit we were mobile again to Lichtenstein and I was cooking on the move.  Potato patties for lunch for all of us.  Hot oil, tiny galley, a moving bus, and  a cook who couldn't cook resulted in an inedible mess.  Nicky's valiant attempt to convert it to bubble and squeak failed...though I assume it is what we all ate.  To the relief of all aboard I subcontracted my cooking duties for following day to Matt (Thanks Matt- a cordon bleau chef if ever there was one!).  Liechtenstein lightning visit at 6:00pm before arrival at Lucerne in Switzerland later in the evening.  An unsuccessful pub search by Matt and myself at 12:00am and an attempted bus invasion by an under-the-weather chap looking for dope ended another day on tour.

 

9 July, Wednesday

 

Lucerne, Switzerland

Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland

Lucerne tour.  Included Panorama exhibition.  On my own for some exploring and then back to meet the bus.  A lesson in paying attention as no bus arrived.  Apparently I got the pick-up point wrong.  That old lesson that if lost stay in one place applied here.  I saw PigPen driving at a distance and caught up with it. Onwards and upwards into the Swiss Alps- Lauterbrunnen.  Arrived at our camp ground at 3:00pm in a magnificent Alpine location.  We were sharing the site with a couple of platoons of British Marines.  Bit unfortunate when it came to the evening pub visit. Pub overflowing with lots of things.  Bridgette, Dianne, and I headed back to PigPen at midnight.

 

10 July, Thursday

 

Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland Highlight today was Jungfraubahn ascent.  Fantastic experience and well worth the $A60 that to me then seemed like a fortune. I seem to remember an ice palace at the summit and lots of snow and ice.  Matt, Alison, Dick and I admired the views and the atmosphere .  Jeans, cotton shirt, and a light jacket don't really cut it at that altitude though. Hot chocolate drinks in the restaurant enabled us to thaw out before Alison and Matt went skiing.  I joined Dick, Bridgette, and Dianne to take a trip to a lookout via the Sphinx lift.  Back at 'base' camp at 6:30pm.  A memorable day.  Dinner at a Swiss restaurant.  

 

11 July, Friday

 

Heidelberg, West Germany Bound for West Germany today  but where's Lisa?  She was soon located ;-) and we were on our way.  Delays at Swiss-German border with close checks of us and passports by guards.  Currency exchange yet again.  Supermarket stop at 2:00pm.  Raining heavy for our trip to Heidelberg.  Matt, Dick, and myself took a look at Heidelberg castle before we headed to Campground Hades about 15 minutes from the city.  Dinner of Beef Stroganoff at 8:00pm and several of us caught a lift into town with an AutoTours coach.  We discovered a tented beerhall in one of the Squares.  Same location a band arrived and played some pretty good music( if memory serves me correctly this band was the Scorpions.)  Matt and I located some Swiss students and tracked down a traditional student keller or students pub. Much drinking, singing and merriment before we both attempted to get back to Hades at around midnight. Apart from a short bus trip it was walking until we got a lift back to the camp by a car load of visitors also staying at the camp.

 

12 July, Saturday

 

Birgen & Bacharach, West Germany

Cologne, West Germany

7:00am departure to Amsterdam with some stops along the way.  Birgen first and a Rhine River cruise to Bacharach, 10 Km away. Short exploration of the picturesque Bachgarach. On to Cologne by bus.  A quiet trip with some tired passengers with sore heads.  Short visit to the Cathedral and then back on the bus to continue to Amsterdam.  Sixpence had been travelling part of the way with us and departed at this point-they were bound for Berlin.  Arrived at Amsterdam campground at 9:00pm.

 

13 July, Sunday

 

Amsterdam, Holland Amsterdam tour-Rijksmuseum, canal cruise.  Some of us went to MacDonalds for lunch-very Dutch.  Ann Frank's house.  Visit to Royal Palace with Bridgette, Dianne, Dick, and Yvonne.  Futile search for Rembrandts house before heading back to the bus.  Evening visit to red light district.  Visit to Bulldog Bar.  Onto Sailors Bar.  Enough said though I do seem to remember being in strife for souveniring paper beer place mats for some reason!

 

14 July, Monday

 

Amsterdam, Holland

Volendam, Holland

Amsterdam tour-Heineken Brewery (1st attempt but rescheduled to tomorrow), street markets, Van Mopes diamond factory.  Lunch of Ham and Cheese rolls on PigPen.  Afternoon trip to Volendam- cheese and clog making factory visit.  Dinner at the Showboat restaurant was most welcome.  We  all are starting to feel a bit down as the adventure draws to a close.  In a couple of days we all go our separate ways. The mourning stage of group dynamics has begun. 

 

15 July, Tuesday

 

Amsterdam, Holland

Zeebrugge, Belgium

Okay, Heineken brewery tour today for sure.  Some negotiating to ensure all members of our group got to go on tour through the plant and we were away.  Departed for Belgium at midday and arrived at camp in the evening.  Spent several hours cleaning the bus, swapping addresses, and preparing for the completion of our trip.  At 8:00pm our last meal together as a group and presentations made to Nicky and Gerry our fearless leaders on tour.  An evening spent at the docks in Zeebrugge.  A quiet sad evening on this our last night on tour.

 

16 July, Wednesday

 

Zeebrugge, Belgium  to London, UK PigPen  onto a Townsend-Thorensen ferry at 7:00am and a 5 hour trip to Dover.  Customs 'apprehended' a few people.  Lots of questions and searching and nothing found of course.  Arrived back at the Enterprise hotel in Earl's Court.  Fond farewells and the end of one adventure but the start of many more...